Wine Director Wows
By: S.W. Kirch
Warning: When it comes to wines, if you know what you like, and don’t have any desire to try something new, think twice before you ask for a recommendation from the French Alpine Bistro’s Wine Director: María José Cárdenas. If, however, you’re open to trying something incredible, complex, and gratifying, then please let her know! She is so obviously passionate about curating the restaurant’s wine list to include predominantly biodynamic wines, family-owned (frequently women led), as well as small batch wines that ultimately impress even the most discerning palate. Simply talking to her about wine varieties and possibilities, and seeing her face light up with enthusiasm when she insists, for instance, that, “Every wine tells a story”, makes a person want to uncork and savor a bottle of whatever-she-recommends right then and there.
While she tends to gravitate towards French wines, she is adamant that, “Alpine wines (from, for example Switzerland, Austria, even Germany) are absolutely delicious - refreshing, crisp, and food-friendly”, and she’s excited to introduce some of them to inquiring guests. Of course, she’s always cognizant of the three basics of wine pairings: contrasting between food and wine, matching the richness, and honoring the adage, “What grows together, goes together”. Here is one of her current favorites: 2018 GOUR DE CHAULÉ ‘LA NUMERO HUIT’ - Gigondas, Southern Rhône, France
If I were to choose a word to describe this wine it would be “Equilibrium”. It is the proof of what Grenache can do if treated right…it mirrors The French Alpine Bistro character: rustic - but sexy and romantic at the same time.
This aptitude when it comes to sourcing, purchasing, and advocating for phenomenal wines stems not only from her own personal interests (history/geography/cultures, etc.), but also demonstrates the bona fides of a credentialed sommelier.
A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), in New York, she opted to receive additional certification in 2018 as a sommelier at The International Culinary Center (ICC), formerly The French Culinary Institute (FCI) in New York City. Currently, she’s a Level 3 sommelier, according to the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), and has taken the exam to become a Court of Master Sommelier (CMS), Advanced Sommelier. Acquiring all the necessary expertise to flourish in the competitive environment of sommeliers requires copious study, critical thinking, and the ability to coalesce a lot of diverse knowledge into a precise recommendation. For confirmation that Cardenas possesses all of these skills, look no further than her nationally recognized "Best of Award" in the June 2022 edition of the Wine Spectator magazine for her wine list. However, her secondary educational journey started long before she turned her attention to wine; it began in Cárdenas' home-country of Colombia, where she went to university in Bogota to become a lawyer.
Initially, she practiced law in the field of human rights. Despite this career having been rewarding in many ways, she found herself still drawn to the world of restaurants and hospitality. In fact, during her time at university, when her fellow students would head to the library to study, she would instead go to her favorite restaurant, sit at her regular table, and savor the atmosphere while she read and annotated her course work. Eventually, after a couple of years, and as a result of much introspection, she chose to do something daring, much like the wanderer in the poem, “The Road Not Taken”, by Robert Frost: “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.” How did she find the courage to take this route?...from having someone who believes in her.
“I wouldn’t be here without my mother’s support”, explains Cárdenas. “She always taught me to be strong no matter what.” A successful business woman in her own right, Cárdenas’ mother, Olga Inés Cano, knows what it means to be a woman in a predominantly man’s world, and she has guided her daughter in how to creatively and constructively interact with whomever (colleagues, clients, or customers) might make the mistake of underestimating her. Of course, French Alpine Bistro owner, Karin Derly didn’t make that mistake, and instead recognized Cárdenas’ aplomb, and recruited her to be the restaurant’s Wine Director. Not too much later, Derly commended Cárdenas’ on her aplomb by promoting her to be the French Alpine Bistro’s General Manager. In other words, Cárdenas is a true professional, and she utilizes all her gifts this season to give you the present: an unforgettable meal, in a convivial setting, paired with a perfect wine.